Frequently Asked Questions

Fill out our online estimate form or email us at info@vineyardfence.com. For a new fence installation the estimate is free — we'll schedule a time to visit, take measurements, discuss your needs, and follow up with a written estimate, usually within a few days. A repair works differently: depending on what's involved there may be a fee. When a diagnostic visit is needed it's $175 (credited toward the work if you go ahead), and it covers coming out, diagnosing the problem, and figuring out which parts to order. Simpler repairs are sometimes free, and we're upfront about it either way.

Most residential fence installations take 1–3 days depending on the scope. A standard yard fence might be done in a day. Larger properties, rocky soil, or complex layouts can take longer. We'll give you a timeline with your estimate.

Yes — clearing the line comes first, especially for removals and demolition. Taking out a fence is a service we offer, but the line has to be reasonably clear and accessible before we arrive. If the fence is overgrown or entangled — brush, vines, or saplings grown through the panels or mesh — or there's poison ivy or poison sumac on it, the property owner is responsible for having that cleared first, by a landscaper, brush-cutting service, or tree company. We're a fencing crew, not a land-clearing service: we remove the fence, not the vegetation grown into it, and we don't cut brush, pull growth out of the mesh, or handle poison ivy or poison sumac. A cleared, accessible line also keeps your estimate accurate and the job on schedule; if the line isn't reachable when we show up, we may need to reschedule.

Under Massachusetts building code (780 CMR), fences under 7 feet do not require a building permit. However, Martha's Vineyard towns can set stricter rules — Edgartown, for example, requires a permit for any fence over 6 feet. Other towns vary. Pool fences always require a permit as part of the pool permit process, regardless of height. If your property is in a historic district (downtown Edgartown, Vineyard Haven's William Street area, Oak Bluffs' Cottage City), the Historic District Commission may also need to approve your fence. We'll tell you what's required for your specific town as part of every job.

We serve all of Martha's Vineyard — Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven (Tisbury), West Tisbury, Chilmark, Aquinnah, and yes, Chappaquiddick too. We handle the Chappy ferry logistics ourselves. See our service areas page for more details.

Martha's Vineyard has several historic districts where the Historic District Commission (HDC) must approve exterior changes — including fences. The main ones: Edgartown's harbor district (~500 buildings), Vineyard Haven's William Street area, and Oak Bluffs' Cottage City district. HDC review is a separate process from the building permit. If your property falls within a district, we can help identify what's required and work within the guidelines. This usually means traditional materials and styles — which is what we build anyway.

For longevity in the island's salt-air environment, aluminum fencing is the most durable — it won't rust, rot, or corrode. White cedar is our most popular wood option because it's naturally rot-resistant and weathers to a beautiful silver-gray that looks right at home on the Vineyard. Split rail cedar also holds up extremely well. We'll help you pick the right material for your specific situation and budget.

We use pressure-treated posts for in-ground structural support because they resist rot where it matters most — below grade. For the visible fence components (rails, pickets, boards), we use naturally rot-resistant white cedar or red cedar, which look better and don't leach chemicals. This gives you the best combination of structural durability and beautiful appearance.

A lot of it comes from off-island. The local yards don't always stock what a job needs, and when they do, the supply can be thin or the posts come in bent or picked over. So we regularly order from suppliers off-island and have the material delivered to the Vineyard. It's an extra step that takes a little time and adds some cost, but it's how we make sure your fence is built from good stock instead of whatever happens to be on the shelf. It's also why lead times can vary, especially for special hardware and pool-gate parts, so the sooner we get started, the better.

Yes — cedar weathers to silver-gray within 6–12 months on the island. Most MV homeowners leave it as-is.

We use white cedar as standard — naturally rot-resistant and built for the island climate. Pressure-treated posts go in the ground for structural durability.

For residential pools (private homes), the requirement under 780 CMR (MA building code, IRC Appendix G) is a barrier at least 48 inches (4 feet) tall. Gates must be self-closing, self-latching, and open outward (away from the pool). Gate latches must be at least 54 inches above ground. No openings wider than 4 inches. No climbable horizontal elements within 45 inches of the ground on the exterior side. Cedar, aluminum, and mesh fences all qualify — there's no material restriction for residential pools. A permit is always required for pool barriers, and the fence is inspected as part of the pool permit.

Note: The stricter 6-foot height requirement you may see online (105 CMR 435) applies to public and semi-public pools — hotels, apartment complexes, swim clubs — not private residential pools. Learn more on our pool fencing page.

Possibly — if it meets current code. The fence must be at least 48 inches tall, with no openings over 4 inches and no climbable horizontal elements on the pool side within 45 inches of the ground. The critical part is usually the gate: it must be self-closing, self-latching, open outward from the pool, and have the latch at least 54 inches above ground. Most existing fences need at least a gate upgrade to pass inspection. We can evaluate your fence and tell you exactly what needs to change — sometimes it's minor, sometimes a new section makes more sense.

Absolutely. All our pool fence gates are self-closing and self-latching per Massachusetts code. We install hinges that close the gate from any position and latches that are positioned to be out of reach of young children. Safety is non-negotiable on pool fencing.

We use several techniques depending on the dog and the fence: buried mesh along the base prevents digging, bottom-rail inserts close gaps, and drive-in ground barriers add extra security. We also assess the right fence height for your dog's breed and jumping ability. See our pet-proof fencing page for the full rundown of our containment solutions.

Yes! We frequently add dig guards, base reinforcements, and gate modifications to existing fences. We'll assess your current fence and recommend the most effective and cost-efficient upgrades to keep your pets safe.

Cats are trickier than dogs because they can climb. We can add fence-top extensions or roller bars that prevent cats from getting over the top. Talk to us about your specific situation — we'll figure out a solution that works.

Yes — that's one of our specialties. We install buried mesh barriers around decks, sheds, and porches that prevent animals from making their home underneath your structures. The mesh is buried 12–18 inches deep in an L-shape so they can't dig past it. See our wildlife barrier page for details.

No. Our barriers are exclusion-only — they simply block access without harming wildlife. If animals are already living under your structure, we can install a one-way exclusion door that lets them leave but prevents re-entry. Once we confirm they're out, we complete the permanent barrier.

For garden protection, yes — we install mesh deer fencing that keeps deer out of gardens and landscaped areas. MV deer density exceeds 55 per square mile (state recommends 12–18), so gardens without protection don't last long. Effective deer fencing needs to be 8+ feet tall, which exceeds the 6-foot permit threshold in Edgartown and may require permits in other towns. We check the local requirements for your specific property before recommending a height.

Every project is different — pricing depends on fence type, linear footage, and terrain. MV pricing reflects island logistics since materials come over on the ferry. Request an estimate or email info@vineyardfence.com for a straightforward quote.

Payment is staged the way Massachusetts law expects: a deposit at signing (one-third of the project total, or the cost of special-order materials if greater), a payment when the crew begins work, and the balance at completion.

We stand behind our work. If something isn't right, we'll fix it. Simple as that. We're a small crew building our reputation on this island — your satisfaction directly affects our livelihood. We don't disappear after the last post goes in.

When a permit is required, it's the contractor's responsibility under Massachusetts law — not the homeowner's. We'll tell you upfront if your project needs one and make sure it's in place before work begins.

Yes — it's the law (M.G.L. c. 82, §§ 40–40E). Massachusetts requires a Dig Safe call before any excavation on any property, public or private, with no exemption for depth, hole size, or hand digging. We premark the dig area and call 811 at least 72 business hours before we break ground. Dig Safe member utilities — Eversource (electric), telecom, and cable — mark their lines at no cost, and the ticket is valid for 30 days.

We call Dig Safe (811) before every job — that's Massachusetts law and we follow it on every installation. Dig Safe notifies electric, telephone, and cable companies, who come out and mark their lines before we touch the ground.

However, Dig Safe does not cover private underground installations — things like septic systems, irrigation lines, propane runs, private electrical to a shed or garage, pool plumbing, or invisible fence wire. These lines aren't owned by utility companies, so they're invisible to the 811 system. On Martha's Vineyard, municipal water and sewer may also fall outside Dig Safe.

Before we dig, we require every property owner to confirm the location of any private underground lines and mark them. Your plumber, electrician, propane company, or irrigation contractor can usually tell you exactly where their work runs. If you're unsure, a private utility locator service can map what's underground before we arrive.

If a private line is not disclosed to us before excavation begins, we cannot be held responsible for damage to it. We take every precaution with what we can see — but we can't dig around what we don't know is there. We also reserve the right to halt work if we observe anything unmarked or uncertain until the property owner can confirm its location. See our full pre-dig disclosure for the complete list of what Dig Safe does and doesn't cover.

White cedar is the island standard — naturally rot-resistant, weathers to silver-gray. Aluminum is the longest-lasting option since it can't rust, rot, or corrode.

In most cases, yes. We can match or closely match existing fence styles, stain colors, and post spacing. We'll evaluate your current fence and show you the closest options available.

Yes — fence removal and demolition is a service we offer, with or without a new installation, and we haul the old fence away and dispose of it. There's one condition: access. The fence line has to be reasonably clear and reachable before we start. If the fence is overgrown or entangled — brush, vines, or saplings grown through the panels or mesh — or there's poison ivy or poison sumac on it, that growth has to be cleared first by a landscaper, brush-cutting service, or tree company. We take out the fence, not the vegetation grown into it: we don't cut brush, pull vines out of the mesh, or handle poison ivy or poison sumac. Once the line is clear, we remove the fence and haul it to the scrap.

We install fences year-round. In mild winters we dig posts without any issues. When the ground freezes hard — usually mid-January through February — we hold off rather than force a job in poor conditions. If your timeline falls in that window, we'll let you know upfront what to expect and schedule the work as soon as conditions allow.